Costume for December 1809
Le Beau Monde at 206-208
Walking Dress.
Hat and mantle of Merino blue cloth, bound round the edges and cape with rich orange-coloured silk, and fancy trimming of the same colour; the ends of the cape and mantle ornamented with a silk tassel of orange.--Round dress of cambric muslin, made high in the neck, with a ruff.--High boots of blue cloth or kid, laced up the front with orange.--Gloves of York tan.--Ridicule of the same colour and materials as the hat and mantle.
Tyrolese hat and dress tippet of royal blue or purple velvet; the hat ornamented with a white feather, silver band, and trimming round the top; tippet trimmed with ermine or swan down, lined with the same, hollowed out at the neck so as to sit close; ornamented with a silver tassel.
Dress of white satin or orange sarsnet, with a train and long sleeves, made very high, and short in front and back, and so low on the shoulder as to leave them almost bare; ornamented down the front, and the top and bottom of the dress, with rich embroidery in gold, silver, or colours.--White kid gloves, white or yellow satin slippers, trimmed to correspond with the trimmings of the dress.
On the Present Style of Personal Adornment
In our former observations on the subject of Female Decoration, we have taken occasion to comment on the endless variety which the unlimited indulgence of Fashion allows to invention and taste: we shall now (in pursuance of the promise contained in the last Number of our Work) proceed with our instructions with remarks on this head–We could say much in praise of many individual articles which Fashion and Fancy have introduced since our last; but we could say much more, did our circumscribed limits permit on the injudicious assortment, combination and adoption by which many of our fair fashionables avert their intended and otherwise advantageous effect.
We have frequent occasion to lament, in the present style of personal adornment, a deficiency in that proper distinction which should ever be attended to, in the several degrees of costume For instance, feathers, which belong, consistently, only to full dress, now meet the eye at every turning. They not only brush the fair cheek, as reclining on the modest Cottage Bonnet, but grown bold by undue encouragement, they mount the Austrian Helmet and Spanish Hat; and, still more incongruous are seen, in the morning costume, on the respectable pedestrian, who, in blind obedience to the fashion of the moment, heedlessly follows in the train of her votaries, regardless of consistency, and in defiance of judgment and taste. It is sufficient for these inconsiderate fair ones, that it is the fashion–they enquire no further; and it is from this indiscriminate adoption, that the credit of taste and the genius of invention is impaired; and that an article, elegant in itself, loses its effect, or is considered as extravagant.--Why should the important and distinguishing marks of a good taste be neglected? Is it not perceptible to every one, that to the several orders and degrees of personal beauty and grace, a separate character belongs? These characters must be appropriately arrayed, or the effect is destroyed. Would any one dress a priest in the party coloured jacket of an harlequin? Or the sober-minded and matured matron in the garb of a youthful shepherdess?--Yet every day we witness equal absurdities. We shall not, then tire in our labours to bring the present elegant race of British fair to a full understanding of this immediate branch of our subject. We are desirous to see them improve on improvements, and that they should exhibit specimens to other countries of the union of taste and genius with the attractive endowments of beauty and the more valuable qualities of domestic virtues.
We shall now proceed with a few select delineations and remarks, which may possibly be more acceptable to our readers than the foregoing admonitory observations. We shall hasten to recommend to the fair and faintly-blushing nymph the singularity attractive robe composed of silver-grey or blossom-coloured velvet, bombasin, Merino cloth, crape or vellum gause. Let these robes be buttoned up the front with silver, and ornamented with silver lace.--We witnessed dresses of this construction, the other evening, formed of cerulean blue poplin: they were worn by two females of considerable beauty and fashionable celebrity. They were ornamented up the front with pea-buttons of black velvet, on each side of which were two edgings of narrow black velvet, Round the bosom and bottom was one of broader dimensions. The waist was confined with a cestus of the same with a diamond buckle. The sleeves were long, and relieved by antique cuffs of plaited cambric; over which were disposed lacings and buttons of chenille cord. The shoes were of white satin with brilliant buckles. The gloves, French kid. The head-dress, a Persian diadem, with brilliant crescent in front.--We have scarce ever witnessed a costume more completely elegant than the one we now pourtray. These robes are in much fashionable estimation, and are composed of various colours, sometimes ornamented with Gothic borders in gold or silver.
The silver Persian bandeau and pin, for the hair, are at this time in high request; as are also the Oriental robe and tippet.--The former consists of a flowing drapery of saffron-coloured gossamer gause, starred with silver and emerald foil. The latter is composed of the zephyr feather, and is of demi-length, rounded at the end.
The Mirza Turban and La Brada Mantle are also articles of much novel elegance. They will doubtless have a great run during the winter. For the Opera-dress we think them peculiarly calculated.--The Persian costume is at this time much adopted, in every species of decoration, and we really think it is highly advantageous to British beauty.
Yellow Russian mantles, trimmed with sable; those of sapphire blue cloth, ornamented with the same are favourite and fashionable appendages for the Theatre. The former are adapted for the brown women; the latter, calculated for the lighter shades of complexion.--The Evening Robe is now worn of a demi height with a double winged frill of antique lace. We do not, however, recommend them to the youthful female.--Robes of coloured gossamer gause, trimmed with white beads, and a deep satin ribbon of the same at the feet, offer a pretty change for Evening Dress. We have seen those of purple and orange tissue, worn over white satin, or sarsnet, have a most pleasing effect.--Variegated clusters of flowers in the hair, bonnet, or satin antique cap, still mingle in the varied scene.--Plaids are again mixing in the fashionable throng, and are an animating relief to the white dress.--Scarfs and tunicks formed of these lively shades, and evening Cottage Cloaks, lined throughout with fur, are exceedingly attractive embellishments.--The long sleeve still prevails over the short one, which lately attempted a revival. In Evening Dress, we perceive however, that they are either much ornamented at the wrists or are formed of the most transparent materials.--The Canonical Robe is a costume which has of late excited much observation, from its striking singularity. It is formed in a round robe of rich Venetian black velvet; the bosom is round, with a frosted binding of silver; the sleeves of the most finely-plaited French lawn, with wrists and edgings of silver lace. Down the front is placed a flat border of French lawn, extending from the bosom to the feet, and edged on each side with small silver frosted pea-buttons, and laced across with silver cord.--The hair, with this dress, is usually worn without any other ornament than a silver frosted or pearl comb.--The shoes are white kid, with small silver buckles.--The gloves are also of kid.
In Evening Dress, the length of the train is considerably increased; but where there is no ruff seen, the bosom and shoulders are still much exposed.--In ornamental Gems there is little novelty. Dark amber beads, together with the gem of bright topaz, is considered very fashionable and is much worn with the black velvet dress.--Orange, amber, bottle green and crimson are the colours most in fashionable request.